How to Wear a Beret
The angle, the tilt, the fit — everything that separates a beret that transforms your outfit from one that just sits on your head
The most common mistake I see with berets isn't buying the wrong color or the wrong material. It's placement. Someone puts a beret on their head, centering it perfectly like a yarmulke, catches their reflection, and decides berets aren't for them. They are for you. You just haven't found your angle yet.
The beret is the only hat where how you wear it is the whole point. A baseball cap goes on one way. A cloche sits one way. A beret has five distinct positions, each creating a different mood, a different silhouette, a different version of you. Once you understand the geometry — the tilt, the pull, the relationship between the hat and your face — a beret becomes the most versatile thing in your wardrobe.
I design berets for a living. I know where they go wrong. This guide covers everything: how to position a beret for your face shape, the five named angles and what each one does, what to wear it with, how different hair types interact with the silhouette, and which berets are actually worth buying.
The short answer: Tilt the beret to one side — never center it. Pull the back down slightly, let the front sit about an inch above your eyebrow, and angle the hat toward your dominant eye. The rest of this guide explains why, and how to adjust for your specific face shape and hair.
The One Rule That Changes Everything
Before anything else: a beret should never sit flat and centered on your head. This is the helmet mistake. It makes the hat look like an afterthought, flattens the crown, and creates a visual effect that's closer to a swim cap than to anything Audrey Hepburn or Brigitte Bardot ever wore.
The tilt is what activates a beret. When you angle the hat to one side, several things happen at once. The crown gets pulled into an asymmetric drape instead of a flat disc. One side of your face gets framed while the other stays open — creating a natural focal point. The diagonal line from the low side of the hat to your opposite cheekbone draws the eye across your face in a way that's inherently flattering.
Here's the exact geometry that works for most people as a starting point:
The Baseline Position
- Brim sits approximately one inch above your eyebrows at the front
- Back of the beret is pulled down slightly toward the nape of the neck — not riding up
- Hat angled toward your dominant side (the side of your stronger or more prominent eye)
- The top drape hangs naturally to the opposite side — don't force it or pin it
- No bobby pins needed if the hat fits properly (see the sizing note below)
From this baseline, everything else is an adjustment. Face shape determines how much tilt. Occasion determines how extreme. Hair type determines how high on the forehead the hat sits. The sections below take each variable in turn.
How to Wear a Beret by Face Shape
The beret is unusually face-shape-friendly — more so than structured hats like a newsboy cap or a cloche, which have their own strong geometry. Because the beret is soft and adjustable, you can fine-tune the angle and position to complement virtually any face shape. Here's how.
| Face Shape | Recommended Position | Tilt | Why It Works | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oval | Any angle — start with a moderate left or right tilt | 30–45° | Balanced proportions work with any hat geometry; focus on what mood you want to create | Centering it flat |
| Round | Pull strongly to one side; let the drape hang away from face | 45–60° | A more extreme tilt creates a diagonal line that counteracts the softness of round cheeks and jaw | Centered placement; shallow tilt |
| Square | Slight tilt with the front sitting low on the forehead | 20–30° | The soft, rounded crown introduces curves against a strong jawline; keeping the front low softens the brow | Pulling the hat very far back — exposes full forehead and emphasizes width |
| Heart | Slight back tilt; brim sits higher on the forehead | 15–25° | Keeping volume away from the wider forehead and pulling the hat slightly back balances a narrow chin | Pulling the brim far forward — adds volume exactly where you don't need it |
| Oblong | Worn forward with minimal tilt; brim sits low on forehead | 10–20° | Low placement creates a visual break that shortens face length; horizontal presence adds width | Pulling back or tilting sharply up — elongates face further |
| Diamond | Slight tilt, front resting low; similar to oval | 25–35° | Adding crown volume at the top balances wide cheekbones while keeping the silhouette soft | Very tight or flat-sitting berets that emphasize cheekbone width |
A note on angles: these are starting points, not mandates. Berets reward experimentation. The right position for you is the one where the hat and your face feel like they belong together — not the one a guide told you to use. Spend five minutes in front of a mirror trying different tilts. You'll feel the moment it clicks.
For a deeper look at how different hat styles interact with face shape, the guide The Complete Guide to Choosing the Right Hat for Every Face Shape covers the full picture — including which face shapes are better served by a newsboy cap or cloche instead.
The 5 Beret Angles — A Visual Style Guide
Every beret look you've ever admired comes from one of these five positions. They have personalities as distinct as the outfits they pair with.
One thing I watch for when fitting berets: most people buy a size based on their baseball cap. Don't. Baseball caps grip the head with a structured band. Berets drape. A beret that fits correctly sits with gentle, even pressure all the way around — it shouldn't squeeze, but it also shouldn't slide around when you tilt it. If you're between sizes, size up and use a hat liner to take up the slack. Sizing down never works with a soft hat — you can feel it immediately.
If you have thick or curly hair, add roughly 1–2cm to your head measurement before choosing a size. The hat needs to sit at the correct level on your forehead, not be pushed upward by your hair volume.
What to Wear with a Beret
The beret's remarkable quality is its range. It's one of the few accessories that genuinely moves across occasions without looking out of place — from a morning at the market to an evening at the theatre. The variable isn't usually the hat itself; it's the material and the position you choose.
| Occasion | Best Beret | Position | Outfit Pairing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daily errands, commute | Wool, neutral color (black, camel, grey) | The Parisian | Trench coat, straight-leg jeans, ankle boots |
| Smart casual, work | Wool or leather, classic shape | The Parisian or French Classic | Blazer, wide-leg trousers, loafers |
| Weekend market, brunch | Cotton or linen, any color | The Modern or The Casual | Oversized knit, white tee, relaxed jeans |
| Evening out | Leather or velvet, dark color | The Artist | Monochrome outfit — all black, all navy, or all camel |
| Autumn walk, cold day | Wool felt or chunky knit | The Casual or The Parisian | Chunky sweater, wool coat, scarf, leather gloves |
| Travel, sightseeing | Cotton or linen — packable, lightweight | The Modern | Layers, comfortable shoes, a bag big enough to pack the hat when you go inside |
| Spring/summer outdoor event | Cotton or linen, bright or pastel color | The Parisian | Midi dress, sandals, minimal jewelry |
On color: a black, camel, or navy beret pairs with everything in your existing wardrobe. This is where to start. Once you understand how a beret moves through your outfits, adding a second one in a color or texture that suits specific outfits makes more sense. The mistake is buying a statement beret first when you don't yet have a confident foundation.
The Material Changes the Mood
The same shape — the same tilt, the same silhouette — reads completely differently depending on the material. This is something competitors rarely explain clearly, so I want to be specific:
Beret Styling by Hair Type
Your hair isn't just underneath the beret — it's part of the look. The interaction between your hair and the hat changes how the silhouette reads from every angle. Getting this right is the difference between a beret that looks intentional and one that looks like you just put something on your head.
Short Hair and Bobs
Short hair is where berets were born. The cloche and the beret both emerged in eras when the bob haircut was at its cultural peak, and the relationship between short hair and a beret remains one of the most elegant in hat styling. The clean lines of a bob let the beret's drape be the visual focus. Tilt more confidently — you can go further toward The Artist position without the hat fighting with hair volume.
Long Hair Worn Down
Long loose hair and a beret make a complete picture: the hat sits at the top of the frame, the hair at the bottom, the face in the middle. The beret does the structural work; the hair provides softness. The one adjustment needed is ensuring the hat doesn't get buried in hair volume at the crown — push it far enough forward or to the side that it reads clearly against your hairline. Loose waves and natural texture work especially well.
Hair Up — Bun or Chignon
A low bun or chignon gives you the cleanest canvas for a beret. The back of the neck is visible, the hat has nothing competing with it, and the overall effect is very French — which is either a feature or a cliché depending on your preferences. A high bun changes the geometry: the hat has to sit above the bun, which can look staged. A low side bun is particularly good because it mirrors the asymmetry of a tilted beret.
Thick or Curly Hair
Thick and curly hair adds volume that affects where the hat sits. The hat will be pushed upward and outward by your hair, so two things matter: first, size up — a hat that's technically your head circumference will ride up rather than sit correctly; second, the beret may need to be positioned further back on the crown where there's less volume. Don't fight it. The interaction between a beret and natural hair texture is striking when you work with the hair's structure rather than against it.
Hat Hair — The Practical Note
A beret that fits correctly doesn't cause hat hair. The problem is pressure — a hat that's too tight presses down on your hair and leaves a crease that takes twenty minutes to release. A properly sized beret rests lightly; your hair springs back the moment you take it off. If you're consistently getting hat hair from your beret, you're wearing it too small.
Which Beret Should You Buy?
Here's the decision framework I'd give a friend who was building their first — or second — beret.
For a complete breakdown of beret materials, sizing options, and the full range of styles including linen, velvet, and novelty berets, read The Complete Guide to Berets: Materials, Styling, and Finding Your Perfect Fit. And if you're comparing the beret against a newsboy cap or cloche, Newsboy Hat vs. Beret vs. Cloche — What's the Difference and Which Should You Buy? lays out exactly when each style is the right choice.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should a beret be tight or loose?
Neither tight nor loose — it should feel secure but light. A properly fitting beret sits with gentle, even pressure all the way around your head. You should be able to tilt it to any angle and have it stay there without slipping, but you shouldn't feel a squeezing sensation across your temples after wearing it for twenty minutes.
If the hat slides when you tilt it, it's too large. If it creates a pressure line you can still see after taking it off, it's too small. Berets are meant to be worn comfortably for hours at a time.
Which side do you tilt a beret?
Traditionally, berets are tilted to the right — the hat angled over the right eye, with the drape hanging to the left. This is the origin of the classic "French beret" image. In practice, tilt toward your dominant side, or whichever side feels more natural after you've tried both in a mirror. Most people have a slight asymmetry in their face that makes one direction feel more balanced than the other. There's no wrong answer — both directions work. What doesn't work is not tilting at all.
How do you keep a beret from falling off?
The honest answer is: fit. A beret that's correctly sized for your head stays on without any intervention. The hat grips via the slight natural tension of the fabric against your head — tilt it to any angle and it should hold. If you find your beret slipping constantly, it's too large.
For fine or slippery hair, a single bobby pin at the back inner edge of the beret — invisible from the outside — adds security without affecting the look. Some berets include a small inner band or elastic for exactly this reason. Satin-lined berets also grip better against fine hair than unlined ones.
Can you wear a beret with curly or thick hair?
Yes — and it can look extraordinary. The main adjustment is sizing: measure your actual head circumference and go up a size from what you might normally choose in a hat, because your hair adds volume between your scalp and the hat brim. The hat needs to sit at the correct level on your forehead, not be pushed up by your hair volume. If you find the beret keeps riding up, you need a larger size or an oversized style. Once the fit is right, the interaction between the beret's clean lines and natural hair texture is one of the best combinations in hat styling.
What's the difference between how French women wear berets and everyone else?
The main difference is confidence and commitment. French beret styling tends toward two things that are both technically simple and psychologically harder: a more dramatic tilt (further to one side than most people feel comfortable with) and less effort spent on the rest of the outfit. A French beret look typically involves one strong piece — the hat, or a statement coat, or a bold lip — with everything else kept minimal. The beret is the punctuation, not the paragraph.
The practical technique is also specific: the French classic position involves pulling the back flat and low against the head, pointing the front brim clearly over one eye rather than centering it. This creates a clean, purposeful silhouette rather than something that just landed on your head.
How do you wear a beret as a man?
The same principles apply — tilt to one side, pull the back down, let the crown drape naturally. The key adjustment is outfit: berets on men read best with clean, considered clothing rather than very casual pieces. Slim trousers, a well-fitting coat, a plain crew-neck sweater — these give the beret context and intention. The French Classic position (brim angled clearly over one eye, back pulled flat) tends to work particularly well for men. Avoid pairing a beret with athletic or extremely casual clothing unless that contrast is intentional.
Find Your Beret
From classic Australian wool to summer cotton to genuine leather — every style available in custom sizes, because the right beret only works when the fit is right.
Explore the Beret Collection